Sam Memmolo
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ATRN Automotive Trim & Restyling News Once we reach the point of ownership, there’s the everyday care and maintenance that allows us the opportunity to show off our machine. There’s the cleaning, polishing, waxing, and detailing until what used to be our fingers are just little nubs. And of course, the oil and filter changes, tire replacement, and constant tinkering!
Let’s start with the where. The ultimate storage space
would be temperature and humidity controlled. With climatic Okay, so we all don’t have access to this type of euphoric storage situation. So how do we best protect our investments? Once we have the storage space, whether it is a garage, a barn, or even a makeshift lean-to, we need to follow some basic guidelines. The following will vary somewhat based on vehicle type, climatic conditions, and the type of storage facility, but most will apply and should be followed. Clean the storage space and rid it of all clutter. Be
sure there are no stacks of newspaper, cardboard, old insulation or other
materials that create an environment for critters to inhabit, or could possibly
provide an ignition source for fire. Be sure to eliminate all soiled rags and
carpeting. We don’t want any spontaneous combustion! Once the vehicle is in place, you may want to jack it up and place it on stands or blocks. Sound like an “old wife’s tale”? If you have polyester tires, getting them off the ground will keep them round. Polyester is still used in some “retro-look” tires. If you are lucky enough to have a lift, it’s a great place to store your vehicle. I personally like the strength and safety offered by “Backyard Buddy” out of Warren, Ohio. You can store one car on top, and park another below. At least park the tires on polyethylene sheeting to reduce the chemical reaction between the tire compounds and the ground. There is a product called “Landing Strips”, widely used in the RV industry for storing motor homes. Landing Strips cost less than $30.00 and are available from Ranger Design in Minnesota. This kind of protection prevents the tires from drawing moisture up from the concrete, and deteriorating the rubber compounds and the steel belts.
Mickey Lauria from Inglese’ Induction Systems in Wallingford, CT notes that the Weber carburetors used in his systems actually have float bowl drain plugs to ease this process. He was emphatic about long-term storage damage from old fuel evaporating in the carburetor. Fuel stabilizers are okay for short term, but being alcohol based, they can evaporate. To prevent flash rusting of the rings to the cylinder walls, I like to use a few ounces of Free-Eze from International Lubricants in Seattle. Simply remove the spark plugs, and use a squirt can with a piece of vacuum hose to add some to each cylinder. Nothing works better for freeing up a flash rusted engine, while providing excellent boundary layer lubrication to prevent galling the rings. Free-Eze also makes great fogging oil as well. I use it on all seasonal engines, personal watercraft, and farm equipment. Next remove the battery. Lead acid batteries emit corrosive gases, especially when in a low state of charge. Place the battery in a warm environment and keep one of the new “Battery Tender” products hooked to it. These units are not chargers, but rather maintain the battery without overcharging. They are fully automatic, and very cost effective. Battery Tenders are available from most good auto parts stores or collector car magazines. They can double the life of your battery. Be sure the engine oil, transmission fluid, and other lubricants are as fresh as possible. Antifreeze coolant is essential to preventing rust and corrosion in the cooling system. A freshly filled cooling system with a 50 / 50 mix of water and quality antifreeze / coolant is much better than leaving the system dry. Cosmetically, wash the vehicle, and then wax it with a good coat of wax that leaves an opaque film when dry. DO NOT remove the wax, but rather leave it on as protection. The dry film is also a great way to see spots you missed. Coat all the rubber door, hood, and trunk seal with a quality rubber protectant. 3M and Meguiars make good gel style rubber protectants that stay on very well. If you have leather or vinyl upholstery, be sure to treat it with something like Lexol or Vinyl-X to keep it supple and prevent cracking. A quality car cover that breathes well makes sense to protect from minor scratches and abrasions, but be sure to leave the windows open a bit for air circulation. Do Not Use a Tarp! Are we there yet?? Not quite. Before you lock it up for the storage period, be sure to strategically place some critter poison baits, (following label precautions, of course) to reduce the chances of these little guys homesteading in your ride. I have replaced quite a few wiring harnesses that our gray squirrel friends have gnawed on. They can also put the upholstery to good use in their lairs. Now we are ready to close it up, and set the security system. You can be assured that this preparation will pay big dividends when you retrieve the vehicle from storage and put it back into service. If you would like to learn more about Sam, and check out some of Sam’s sources Happy Motoring! Co Host of Two Guys Garage TV show on SpeedChannel & Sam’s Garage nationally syndicated Radio Show.
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Put it
away the “Right Way”
Then
we need to store our ride for an extended period of time. Maybe we’re off to
travel the world, or maybe we just live where old man winter hangs around for
eight or nine months. Whatever the reason for storage, we need to protect our
investment. Let’s put it away the “right way”!
Run
the vehicle out of fuel. Fuel breaks down, and leaves lots of harmful residue
behind. If possible, siphon all remaining fuel from the tank. On a carbureted
engine, try to evacuate the float bowl through the float bowl vent tubes. A
small siphon gun and hose work well for this. Remember, gasoline is dangerous,
so dispose of the old fuel responsibly.